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Maria Toccafondo-Wisler cuts Shawn Reagor's hair recently at Gent's Dapper Cuts barbershop in Helena. THOM BRIDGE, Independent Record When you think of a barbershop, you might picture a group of men chatting about recent events as the sound of buzzing razors and the smell of coffee and cologne fill the air.  When you picture a salon, the image might be a group of women sitting in front of mirrors chatting across the room as their stylists cut, perm, straighten, color and press their hair while bleach and conditioner perfume the air. What you might not picture is someone in a barbershop or salon having a gender identity crisis because they don't know whether to select a "women's" or "men's" haircut. Throughout history, barbershops and salons and the haircuts offered have been gendered and many are still today. There is a movement toward androgyny with many barbershops, salons and haircuts catering to both males and females, but how does a person feel in these places if they do not conform to the gender binary of male or female (non-binary) or to their sex assigned at birth (transgender)? Lennon is a member of the non-binary community in Helena. They weren’t out as non-binary when they moved to Helena, but they were getting “masculine” shorter haircuts at the time. They go to a local barbershop but are switching to a different salon to follow their stylist, who is very “open and affirming.” By “affirming,” Lennon means “gender affirming,” or people... https://youprobablyneedahaircut.com/hair-clipper-sizes/.

Haircut number 7 on top “It is really important to me as a non-binary person that a salon is very open and affirming in their language, so if they have a website, if they’re specifically putting out there that they are trans and non-binary inclusive, making sure that their staff are trained in what it means to be affirming and inclusive, and creating a space where as a non-binary person I can feel comfortable receiving services from that business,” said Lennon. Sage Julian has been a barber for five years in Seattle, but they spent most of their summers growing up in Billings with their grandma. “I came out as non-binary trans masculine three years ago," said Julian.

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time to really be myself.” Since then, Julian has been hard at work on social media getting out the word that they’re a non-binary barber and trying to build trust with clients. “We have the LGBTQ flag and trans pride flags hanging proudly in the windows of my barbershop,” said Julian. “I’ve helped a lot of queer youth with gender euphoric haircuts and tell them they can trust me and let them know they’re safe to tell me anything and that I will respect their name, pronouns and style choices because that’s what I always wanted for myself.” In their shop, stylists write their pronouns on their license frame. “We try to state our pronouns and ask clients theirs just to break down any barriers,” said Julian. “My shop says ‘Rudy’s - for everyone.’ I try to keep it simple and not so corporate sounding.” They charge based on hair length and time, not gender. A short haircut is anything above the chin, and a long haircut is anything below. Every cut comes with a wash and style. “What’s the point in charging a ‘woman’ with long hair for a trim but not charging a ‘man’ with the same hair length the same price?” asked Julian. Among the 10 or so barbershops and salons in Helena with operating websites, Bassu Salon and Aesthetics is the only one that lists “non-binary” as an option for haircuts. The other barbershops and salons list men, women, and children’s haircuts as options or list... https://wisebarber.com/hair-clipper-guard-sizes/.

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long, thick hair or a female has a short, easy cut. She lets the clients know early in their appointments about upcharges or downcharges. “I would definitely encourage (other shops to include non-binary as a haircut option). Just to have it and to make everyone comfortable,” said Hochstrasser. “A lot of (barbershops and salons) cater to everyone, it’s just not on their website, and if someone wouldn’t have called me, I wouldn’t have (listed non-binary haircuts).” Gendered hair pricing is not modernized enough to fully represent the non-binary community since non-binary is rarely listed as a haircut option, but does that mean gender should be removed completely from the hair business? “Lots of times, we know that there can be benefits for spaces that incorporate gender. It’s about being in a space with like people,” said Shawn Reagor, director of equality and economic justice at the Montana Human Rights Network. “The problem is when it becomes inequitable and inaccessible to certain people.” Reagor is a member and advocate of the transgender community. Like every human, he is much more complex than a simple label. “I think that, first and foremost, when we are talking about trans people, you don’t have to understand what it means to be trans to be able to respect someone. You don’t have to understand my history or where I came from or why I am the person that I am to agree that I pay taxes, I’m involved in the community, I volunteer, I go... https://themensattitude.com/number-8-haircut/.

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intimidated by certain customers, but the best advice I ever got was from a friend at a salon. She said, ‘They’re coming to you for a service, so you can’t care about who they are or who they think they are.'” Gent’s Dapper Cuts charges a flat rate of $18 per haircut and only cuts men’s hair. If a woman or someone who doesn’t want a typical “male” haircut walks in, Toccafondo-Wisler gives them a good recommendation for a salon in Helena. Some salons in Helena often do the same, referring male clients to Gent’s. “I’ve always loved pretty things, and then I realized I can make other people feel pretty and good about themselves,” said Toccafondo-Wisler. “It’s about giving a little time out of your day to make their day.” Maria Toccafondo-Wisler cuts Shawn Reagor's hair recently at Gent's Dapper Cuts barbershop in Helena. THOM BRIDGE, Independent Record There are movements and campaigns that have gained traction to make barbershops and salons safer spaces for all. One of those is a 2017 campaign called “Strands For Trans.” This campaign’s goal is to map transgender-friendly barbershops and salons after headlines about discrimination against transgender people trying to get their hair cut began surfacing. The website reads “Haircuts are historically gendered: Salons for women. Barbershops for men. This leaves the trans community feeling uncomfortable, unwelcome and unsure. Strands For Trans is bringing gays, straights, women, men, anyone, together to create trans-friendly barbershops and hair salons.” Due to an... .

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welcomes and respects customers of all identities. “I don’t care who comes into my shop. If I am able to offer them a service and keep them happy, then that is my job,” said Schlosser. “That is why I signed up for ‘Strands For Trans.’” Canvas Studios is one of Montana’s salons registered on “Strands For Trans.” Canvas has been operating for 11 years in Missoula. Andrea Caffrey bought the hair studio three years ago but worked there for eight years prior. After starting her hair career at a chain where “people were viewed as dollar signs,” she knew she wanted to do something different, so when a friend texted her about Canvas opening, she applied. As a stylist, Caffrey started out doing the typical men’s and women’s haircut pricing because it was what she knew, but she had a trans friend message her stating that they didn’t know which haircut option to pick. From that moment, Caffrey said it was “obvious” to take gender out of her haircut pricing altogether. “It can be confusing for people, and we have the privilege to educate them. We have some women in their 70s who come in and say ‘My grandson is trans, what do I do?’ Or others come in and ask, ‘How do you know what gender to call someone?’ I tell them, ‘You ask,’” said Caffrey. "(Missoula) is a purple town in a red state, and not everyone feels super safe, so we make safe spaces… If we can... .

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just about hair. Hair is a surface issue in the depth of challenges facing members of the LGBTQ+ community. Over 1.6 million adults (18 or older) and youth (13 to 17) identify as transgender in the U.S., according to a study released in June of this year from Williams Institute at UCLA School of Law. That's more than the entire population of the state of Montana at 1.1 million in July 2021, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. All of these individuals have hair in some shape or form that needs upkeep whether they cut it at home or find an inclusive and safe barber or stylist to cut it. Is taking gender pricing out of the hair industry “too woke,” or would it “overcomplicate” things? “(It’s) just the opposite. (It would) simplify something that has been overcomplicated,” said Reagor. “It’s another system that impacts us all, even if we don’t see it.” Justin Cyrus, CEO of space tech firm Lunar Outpost, joined Cheddar News to discuss the company's planned moon missions and how it plans to bring intra-lunar communication to the moon and more. "We're heading towards a future where there's a sustainable presence not only on the moon but on Mars and beyond, and that's going to be enabled by companies like ours that are providing the robotic systems that are providing the infrastructure to make that sustainability possible," he said. Usatoday.com cannot provide a good user experience to your browser. To use this site and... .

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your stylist when you're at the salon. 01 of 08 Curtain Bangs & Long Layers Robin L Marshall/WireImage Itching to make a change without losing any length? A set of curtain bangs can make any haircut look brand new. "Curtain bangs maintain length while adding a new pop around the face to accentuate eyes, cheekbones, and lips," says Lily Mauro, Bumble and bumble Midtown East Salon Hairstylist. "They can start shorter around the arch of the brows to nose for a more 'always framed' look, or a longer starting point around the tip of the nose and lips for a more versatile curtain that could be tucked and pulled back." Another selling point? This style of bangs works across all hair textures. "For those with curls, make sure the length of curtain works for your lifestyle and curl pattern for days you want your hair blown out and when you want to wear them curly," Mauro adds. 02 of 08 The Fashion Mullet Emma McIntyre/Getty Images for iHeartMedia The once subversive haircut is now a mainstay on fashion week runways and red carpets. A modern take on the cut includes a ton of layers to play up the contrast between the different lengths in the front and back. "The fashion mullet takes it further by shortening the layers through the side panels and bang sections to create a disconnection leaving only the nape with length," Mauro explains, "Face-frame lengths can be customized to highlight your favorite... .

Haircut Numbers

likes the element of surprise." 05 of 08 The Bixie Like fashion, beauty trends are cyclical, so it's not surprising that the bixie haircut is among the '90s looks that have experienced a resurgence this year. A cross between a bob and a pixie, the cut is ideal for anyone who wants a short length but doesn't want to go as far as a traditional pixie. "This cut is the perfect storm because you get the edge of a pixie without sacrificing the face frame and fringe of a textured bob," Justin Toves-Vincilione, Hairstylist and Advocate for the Authentic Beauty Concept, previously told InStyle. The bixie also works well across all hair textures, from straight to natural like Gabrielle Union's take on the '90s cut. 06 of 08 The Shag Charley Gallay/Getty Images for Netflix Few haircuts are as versatile as the shag, which is why it continues to be a major hair trend season after season. The cut can be worn with bangs like Sandra Oh or without, and also works across hair textures. "Creating shorter round layers all throughout the crown with carved out petals will add effortless movement and rock-and-roll vibes, plus a low-maintenance styling routine," Mauro says of the shag. "It's most suitable for those with waves and curls, but can work for straighter textures as well." 07 of 08 Face-Framing Layers Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic If you're in the process of growing out your hair or simply want to refresh your current length, add... .